Alila Kothaifaru

Alila, meaning ‘Surprise’ in Sanskrit, was acquired as a brand by the Hyatt group in 2018, and more often than not the big international hotel brands struggle to get it right in the Maldives. Alila Kothaifaru firmly bucks this trend. Although the Covid-delayed opening in 2022 was four years after the acquisition, it seems that the resort’s roots lay firmly in the independent Indonesian brand’s original ethos, with minimal influence from its behemothic parent.

After a warm welcome from a highly experienced team the most striking first impression is how lush the island foliage seems. This established feel is reinforced in the island’s interior where clever design and sympathetic use of hanging plants means the modern, geometric architecture is blended into the natural environment. Each island villa is like a miniature homage to Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpiece at Heritance Kandalama.

The muted colour interiors of the 80 villas are spacious enclaves for modern, comfortable luxury living. The beds are huge and dressed in immaculate white linens, there is ample wardrobe space for an extended Maldivian holiday, a well-lit dressing table, and plenty of surfaces for laying out all our travelling paraphernalia. The island villa outdoor bathrooms accessed behind the bed are furnished with large dark grey tiles and feel luxurious. The separate living area is really spacious and can accommodate 2 up to 12. Floor-to-ceiling windows open into the garden with pool and then a few steps take you to sun loungers and onto the beach. The Water Villas offer stunning views across the ocean, with pool and hammock on the decks. However, the smaller footprint has led to a couple of questionable design choices: beds facing the TV rather than the window and wardrobes in the bathroom, and some may struggle with the steep ladders into the lagoon at low tide.

There is a nice reef for snorkelling, with easiest access just in front of Yakitori bar and the drop off extends between there and the arrival harbour. For more experienced swimmers, the reef on the far side of the harbour is more varied but also subject to channel currents (check conditions with the dive team). There are plenty of accessible dive sites in Raa & Baa atoll, with excursions expertly serviced from a smart dive centre. Water sports are limited to non-motorised to protect the reef and lagoon environment.

Service, starting with your enthusiastic island host and extending to every outlet and staff interaction, is top drawer. A well-drilled team, overseen by visible management, is attentive and efficient and yet never pushy or overbearing, and puts some other higher-end properties to shame.

Dining is excellent. Seasalter (with its varied menus and chefs for whom nothing is too much trouble) and Umami (superb Asian cuisine with Teppanyaki counter) are both classy and relaxed at the same time. Delicious snacks are available at the Yakitori bar, perched over the water on the edge of the beach, where sun lounger service is also available. The Mirus (‘Chilli’) Bar is a perfect location both during the day and for evening cocktails. For those not keen on Asian dining, we wonder if the unused reception area might work as a feet-in-the-sand grill outlet for added variety.

The star of the show is The Shack, the Maldives’ (and presumably the world’s) first sand bank restaurant, featuring grill, bar, hammock and even a shower and loos. A sunset dinner here on the beach is a unique experience and what lasting memories are made of.

Alila was indeed a ‘Surprise’, one of the best new resorts we have visited in recent years, and earns a worthy spot on our highly recommended list.

To read more detailed assessments see our trip review blog post.